I was struck while listening to a sermon by Pastor John during a recent church service with the idea of failing, but continuing to try; the idea of repeatedly falling, but continuing to get up again until one no longer falls. That brought to my mind surfing. Now, I don’t surf, don’t claim to know anything about the ins and outs of surfing, but what I do know, just from observation, is that the best surfers take on the biggest and most dangerous waves and rarely fall down. I’m pretty sure that they did not develop that skill in a day or in one fall. So, let’s look at what it takes to be an accomplished surfer.
The surfer runs into the surf with his board, and lying on the board, paddles out, away from the beach, into the oncoming waves. When he is out far enough, he turns his board to face the shore and waits for that perfect wave, a small one at first. As the wave approaches, he begins to paddle with the wave and at the right moment, he stands, balancing himself on the board, riding the wave. Sound easy? Not so much. Learning to surf, like any other learning experience, takes time, and sometimes it will seem impossible to ever stay up on that board for more than a few seconds.
“The first few attempts were humiliating—waves knocking me sideways, the board slipping out from under me, saltwater burning my throat. Each fall felt like the ocean laughing at me, and I started to wonder if I’d made a mistake.
“But then came the moment.
“A small, clean wave rolled toward me … . I paddled hard, feeling the swell lift me. My arms burned, my breath caught, and then—miraculously—I was standing. The board sliced forward, the wind rushed past my ears, and the world narrowed to the shimmer of water beneath me. I wasn’t thinking about balance or fear or how ridiculous I must have looked. I was just there, moving with the ocean instead of against it.
“It lasted maybe ten seconds before I tumbled into the foam … .”
And then came the wipeout, another, and another … .
Five of the most challenging and dangerous places to surf are: Nazare, Portugal; Pipeline, Hawaii; Mavericks, California; Shipsterns, Australia, and Teahupoo, Tahiti. At each one you find shallow reefs and the most powerful and highest waves, some from 25–80 feet high crashing with deadly force, all of which require a high level of skill and experience, determination and resilience to ride these waves. These surfing spots are not for the faint of heart and are the surfing pinnacle that all serious surfers seek to surpass.
There is an interesting feature to the surfboard. The board has a leash that is tethered to the surfer’s ankle. It is essential for safety and keeping the surfboard, during a wipeout, from getting lost or injuring other, nearby surfers. It also can enhance the stability of the board’s performance while riding the wave.
The Holy Spirit stays tethered to us as we ride the waves of sins, to help us reach the pinnacle of the sinner’s journey—overcoming. No matter how many times we fail, He is there to help us get back up. I am reminded of Mary Magdalene. She sinned and sinned again, and Jesus forgave her seven times. There was no eighth time for she had at last overcome.
Friends, don’t be afraid if you fall.With the help of the Holy Spirit, just get back up, again and again, conquering each wave.
Sources: outdoorgus.com/top-10-hardest-places-to-surf-in-the-world; greenwhite.org/my-first-time-surfing-a-short-story